1. Te whakarōpūtanga o ngā papanga jacquard
Ko te jacquard tae-kotahi he papanga tae jacquard--ko te papanga hina jacquard ka whatuhia ki te whatu jacquard i te tuatahi, kātahi ka taehia, ka oti. Nō reira, he nui atu i te rua ngā tae o te papanga jacquard miro-tae, he momona te tae o te papanga, kāore i te hoha, he kaha te pānga toru-ahu o te tauira, ā, he teitei ake te taumata. Kāore he rohe o te whānui o te papanga, ā, he iti te whakaheke o te papanga miro parakore, kāore e piko, kāore hoki e memeha. Ko ngā papanga jacquard ka taea te whakamahi mō ngā rauemi kākahu papai me te papai, ngā rauemi ahumahi whakapaipai rānei (pēnei i ngā ārai, ngā papanga sofa). He uaua te tukanga hanga o ngā papanga jacquard. Ka rarangahia ngā miro whenu me te miro whatu ki runga, ki raro hei hanga i ngā tauira rerekē, me ngā tauira piko me te piko, ā, he maha ngā wā ka rarangahia ngā tauira ataahua pēnei i te putiputi, te manu, te ika, te pepeke, te manu me te kararehe.
He ngawari, he ātaahua, he maeneene te kakano, he kanapa pai, he ngāwari ki te tauhiuhi me te uruhanga hau, he pakari te tae (tae miro). He nui, he ātaahua te tauira o te papanga jacquard, ā, he mārama te paparanga tae, he toru-ahu, ko te tauira o te papanga dobby he māmā noa, he kotahi.
HātiniKakahu jacquard (kakahu): Ka whatua te whenu me te whatu i te iti rawa i ia toru miro, nō reira ka mātotoru ake te papanga i te whatu satin, nō reira ka matotoru ake te papanga. He nui ake te utu o ngā hua whatu satin i ngā hua whatu papatahi me ngā hua whatu twill rite. Ko ngā papanga i whatua ki te whatu satin ka kiia ko ngā papanga whatu satin. Ka taea te wehewehe i ngā papanga whatu satin ki ngā taha o mua me muri. I roto i te koropiko whatu katoa, kei reira ngā pūwāhi whatu iti rawa me ngā rārangi mānu roa rawa. Tata tonu te mata o te papanga he mea hanga ki ngā rārangi mānu, ki ngā rārangi whatu rānei. He ngawari te kakano o te papanga whatu satin. He taha o mua me muri o te papanga whatu satin, ā, he maeneene, he angiangi te mata o te papanga, he ki tonu i te kanapa. Ko te papanga satin tino noa ko te satin whiri, e kiia ana ko te satin. E wātea ana i roto i ngā rīpene satin 40-tatau 2m 4-whānui me ngā rīpene satin 60-tatau 2m 8-whānui. Ko te tukanga whatu tuatahi kātahi ka tae, ko tēnei momo papanga he tae totoka, e toro atu ana mā ngā rīpene whakapae. Ka paku mimiti te papanga miro parakore, kāore e miro, ā, kāore e ngāwari ki te memeha.
2. Tikanga tiaki kakahu
Te Horoi: He mea whatu ngā kākahu mai i ngā muka hauora ngawari e ahu mai ana i te pūmua. Kaua e mirimirihia ngā kākahu ki ngā mea taratara, kaua hoki e horoia ki te mīhini horoi. Me rumakina ngā kākahu ki te wai matao mō te 5--10 meneti, ā, me whakamahi i te hopi hiraka motuhake, i te hopi horoi koretake rānei. Me mirimiri mārire ki te hopi (mēnā ka horoi koe i ngā papanga iti pēnei i ngā hāri hiraka, he pai ake te whakamahi i te hopi horoi makawe), ā, horoia tonutia ngā kākahu hiraka tae ki te wai ma.
Te Whakamaroke: Kaua ngā kākahu e tukua kia whiti ki te rā i muri i te horoinga, ā, kaua rawa e whakamahanahia ki te mīhini whakamaroke. Ko te tikanga, me whakamaroke ki te wāhi hauhautanga, hauhautanga hoki. Nā te mea ka kōwhai, ka memeha, ka tawhito hoki ngā kākahu hiraka i ngā hihi ultraviolet o te rā. Nō reira, i muri i te horoinga o ngā kākahu hiraka, kāore e pai kia hurihia kia tangohia te wai. Me rūrū mārie, ā, me whakapūhau te taha whakamuri ki waho, kātahi ka whakahāngaihia, ka rūrūtia rānei kia papatahi i muri i te whakamaroketanga kia 70% te maroke.
Te rino: He iti ake te ātete o ngā kākahu ki ngā kita i ērā o ngā muka matū, nō reira he kīwaha "kāore he kita, ehara i te hiraka tūturu". Mēnā he kita ngā kākahu i muri i te horoinga, me rino kia pakari, kia huatau, kia ataahua hoki. I te wā e rino ana, whakamarokehia ngā kākahu kia 70% te maroke, kātahi ka rehuhia te wai kia ōrite, ā, tatari mō te 3-5 meneti i mua i te rino. Me whakahaere te pāmahana rino i raro i te 150°C. Kaua te rino e pā tika ki te mata hiraka kia kore ai e parauri.
Tiaki: Hei tiaki i ngā kākahu, mō ngā kākahu o roto angiangi, ngā hāte, ngā tarau,ngā kākahu, pajama, me ētahi atu, horoia tuatahi, ā, whakamākūkūtia kia maroke i mua i te penapena. Mō ngā kākahu o te ngahuru me te hotoke, ngā koti, te Hanfu, me te cheongsam e kore e taea te tango me te horoi, me horoi mā te horoi maroke, ā, me whakamākūkūtia kia papatahi hei ārai i te harore me te pūrerehua. I muri i te whakamākūkū, ka taea hoki te mahi hei whakahoromata me te patu pepeke. I taua wā anō, me pupuri kia ma, kia hiritia hoki ngā pouaka me ngā kāpata penapena kākahu kia kore ai e poke te puehu.
Wā tuku: Hanuere-10-2023
