Reihihe mea kawemai. He kiko whatu, he mea whatu ā-ringa tuatahi mā te whatu. He nui ngā kākahu wāhine e whakamahia ana e ngā Pākehā me ngā Amerikana, inā koa i roto i ngā kākahu ahiahi me ngā kākahu marena. I te rautau 18, i whakamahia whānuitia hoki ngā kooti Pākehā me ngā tāne rangatira i roto i ngā ringaringa, ngā remu kara, me ngā tōkena.
Te pūtake o te rei
Kāore i whiwhi te hanganga putiputi o te reihi mā te whatu, te raranga rānei, engari mā te miro miro. I Ūropi i ngā rautau 16 me te 17, ko te whakamahinga o ngā miro reihi matua-miro i noho hei puna moni mā ngā kaimahi toi takitahi, hei huarahi hoki mā ngā wāhine rangatira ki te whakapau i ō rātou wā. I taua wā, he nui rawa te hiahia pāpori mō te reihi, ā, nā reira i tino ngenge ai ngā kaimahi reihi. He maha ā rātou mahi i roto i te rūma raro i poke, ā, he ngoikore te mārama, nō reira ko ngā wira hurihuri anake i kitea e rātou.
Mai i te hanganga o te whatu rīhi a John Heathcoat (i patenttia i te tau 1809), ka uru te hanga rīhi o Peretānia ki te wā ahumahi, ka taea e tēnei mīhini te whakaputa i te turanga rīhi hexagonal tino pai, he rite tonu. Ko ngā mahi toi anake me whatu whakairoiro ki runga i te tukutuku, he mea hanga ki te hiraka. I muri i ētahi tau, ka hangaia e John Leavers tētahi mīhini i whakamahi i te kaupapa o te whatu jacquard Wīwī hei whakaputa i ngā tauira rīhi me te mata rīhi, ā, koinei anō hoki te whakatūnga o te tikanga rīhi i Nottingham. He tino uaua te mīhini Leavers, he 40000 ngā wāhanga me te 50000 ngā momo rārangi, me mahi mai i ngā koki rerekē.
I ēnei rā, kei te whakamahi tonu ētahi kamupene reihi kounga teitei i ngā mīhini Leavers. Kua whakauruhia e Karl Mayer ngā mīhini whatu miro pēnei i a Jacquardtronic me Textronic hei hanga reihi reihi leavers, engari he iti ake te utu, he pai ake, he māmā ake hoki.
Ka rerekē anō hoki te āhua o te reihi i ngā miro rīhi pēnei i te rayon, te nairona, te polyester me te spandex, engari me tino pai te kounga o te miro e whakamahia ana hei hanga reihi, me te maha o ngā miro he nui ake i te miro e whakamahia ana mō te whatu, te raranga rānei.
Ngā Kai me te Whakarōpūtanga o te Reihi
Ko te nairona, te polyester, te miro me te rayon ngā rauemi matua mō te reihi. Mēnā he spandex, he hiraka rānei hei tāpiri, ka taea te hanga i te ngāwari.
Nailoni (polyester rānei) + spandex: he miro pīrori noa.
Nailoni + polyester + (spandex): ka taea te hanga hei miro tae-rua, he mea hanga mā te whakamahi i ngā tae rerekē o te tae brocade me te polyester.
Polyester katoa (nailona katoa rānei): ka taea te wehewehe ki te miro kotahi me te miro, e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā kākahu marena; ka taea e te miro te whai i te pānga o te miro.
Nailoni (polyester) + miro: ka taea te hanga kia rerekē te tae.
Ko te tikanga whānui, ko te reihi kei te mākete e wehea ana ki te reihi muka matū, te reihi kakahu miro, te reihi miro miro, te reihi whakairo me te reihi wairewa i roto i ēnei wāhanga e rima. He āhuatanga motuhake tō ia reihi, ā, he rerekē ngā painga me ngā ngoikoretanga.
Ngā kaha me ngā ngoikoretanga o Lace
1, ko te reihi muka matū te momo papanga reihi tino noa, he rauemi i hangaia mai i te nairona me te spandex. He angiangi te kakano, he mārō ake, ki te pā tika ki te kiri, ka paku pāngia. Engari ko ngā painga o te reihi muka matū he iti te utu, he maha ngā tauira, he maha ngā tae, ā, he kaha, kāore e ngāwari te whati. Ko te ngoikoretanga o te reihi muka matū, kāore e pai, kāore e taea te rino i te pāmahana teitei, kāore e ngāwari te whakamahi, kāore e taea te mau hei kākahu whaiaro. Ā, i te nuinga o te wā, nā te utu o te reihi muka matū, he maha ake te whakamahinga i roto i ngā kākahu iti te utu, nō reira ka puta he ahua "iti ake te utu" ki te tangata.
2. Ko te miro miro he momo miro i hangaia ki te miro miro i runga i te arai miro, kātahi ka tapahia te wāhanga tuwhera o te kakahu miro. He momo miro noa hoki te miro miro, ka kitea i runga i te maha o ngā kākahu, he rite tonu te ngāwari ki te kakahu miro. Ko ngā painga o te miro miro he iti te utu, kāore e ngāwari te whati, ka taea te pēhi i te pāmahana teitei, he pai te ahua. Engari ko te ngoikoretanga o te miro miro he ngāwari te miro, he iti ake te āhua, he mā noa iho. I te nuinga o te wā, he pai te miro miro hei whakakapi mēnā kāore koe e pai ki te whakamahi i te miro muka iti te utu, he kaha te whakaaro ki te utu.
3, ko te miro miro, e ai ki te ingoa, ko te miro miro te miro i whatua hei miro. Nā te miro miro miro i whatua, ka matotoru ake te matotoru, ka taratara ake te āhua. He rite ngā painga me ngā ngoikoretanga o te miro miro ki ērā o te miro kakahu miro. He ahua ake te miro miro i te miro miro, he nui ake te utu, ā, kāore e ngāwari te miro, engari nā te matotoru ake, kāore e ngāwari te piko me te piko. I te nuinga o te wā, ka whakamahia te miro miro miro ki ngā kākahu i runga i ētahi miro iti, ā, kāore e tino kitea.
4, ko te miro whakairo he mea hanga ki te miro, te polyester me ētahi atu miro hei whakairo i te āhua o te miro, kātahi ka tapahia te āhua o te miro nā te mea he mata te arai, nō reira ka rerekē te āhua i runga i te pakeke o te mata. Engari i te nuinga o te wā, he pai ake te miro whakairo ngohengohe i hangaia ki te mata ngohengohe. Ki te whakatauritea ki ngā momo e 3 o runga ake nei, ko te painga o te miro whakairo he ngawari te āhua, he maeneene, kāore e ngāwari te miro, ka taea te piko, he pai ake te ngāwari. Ko te ngoikoretanga o te miro whakairo he kore e wera te rino, he iti ake te tauira, he ngāwari te whati. I te nuinga o te wā, ko ngā kākahu he nui ake te hiahia mō te ngawari me te rauemi ka whakamahia he miro whakairo, pērā i te arai o te remu me ngā kākahu o roto.
5, ko te miro polyester, ko te miro viscose rānei te miro, ka whatua ki runga i te pepa arai, ā, i muri i te whakamahinga o te wai wera nui, ka whakarewahia te pepa arai, ka waiho ko te tinana miro anake, ahakoa te ingoa miro wai-rewa. Nā te mea he nui ake ngā ngira o te miro wai-rewa i ngā miro o runga ake nei, he nui ake te utu o te miro wai-rewa. Ko te painga o te miro wai-rewa he tino pai te āhua, he ngawari, he maeneene, he paku pīataata, he kanapa, he āhua-toru-ahu, ā, he maha ngā tauira. Ko te ngoikoretanga o te miro wai-rewa he nui te utu, he matotoru, he ngāwari ki te takai, ā, kāore e taea te pēhi i te pāmahana teitei. I te nuinga o te wā, ko ngā kākahu he pai te mahi me te rauemi, he miro wai-rewa te nuinga, ā, ko te miro wai-rewa pai ka eke ki te utu tekau, ki te rau rānei o te yuan/mita.
Wā tuku: Paenga-whāwhā-02-2024
