Te mōhiotanga whānui mō ngā papanga me te tautuhi i ngā papanga tuku iho

Kakahu kakahuHe kaupapa ngaio tēnei. Ahakoa kāore e hiahiatia ana kia matatau tātou ki te mātauranga papanga, pērā i ngā tohunga kakahu, hei kaihoko kakahu, kia mōhio hoki rātou ki ngā papanga, kia taea ai hoki te tautuhi i ngā papanga noa, te mārama ki ngā painga me ngā ngoikoretanga o ēnei papanga me ngā momo kāhua e tika ana.

1. Ngā mōhiohio matua mō te papanga

(1) Te hanganga o te papanga: Ko te hanganga o te papanga, tae atu ki ngā rauemi, te āhua o te ringa, me ētahi atu, e whakatau ana ko ngā āhuatanga maha o ngā papanga he ihirangi me mārama ngā kaihoko i te wā e hoko ana i ngā hua, nō reira he mea tino nui tēnei.

(2) Ngā āhuatanga tiaki: ko te tiaki i ngā papanga ko te horoi, te tiaki, me ētahi atu, he ihirangi tēnei e tino āwangawangahia ana e ngā kaiwhakamahi mutunga. I ētahi wā ka mutu te hoko a ngā kaihoko i te hua nā te mea he uaua rawa te tiaki.

(3) Ngā papanga me ngā kākahu whatu: Nā te rerekētanga o ngā taputapu raranga me ngā tikanga raranga, e rua ngā momo matua o ngā papanga kakahu:

① Kakahu: mā te whakamahi i ngā rōpū miro e rua, neke atu rānei, ki tētahi ki tētahi i te koki matau, ka kiia te miro roa ko te miro whenu, ā, ko te miro whakawhiti ki mua, ki muri ko te miro whatu. Nā te mea ka hono poutū te miro papanga, he pakari, he pumau, he iti hoki te tere whakaheke o te rohe.

② Mea whatu: ko te hanganga o te mowhiti miro ka hanga he mowhiti ngira, ka puta te mowhiti ngira hou mā roto i te mowhiti ngira o mua, ka tuaruatia, arā, ko te hanganga o te mea whatu.

(4) Hanganga whakaritenga papanga: Ko ngā mea e whai ake nei ko ngā kiko taketake e toru o te papanga, e mōhiotia ana ko te whakaritenga taketake. I ahu mai ngā whakaritenga katoa i ēnei huringa whakaritenga e toru.

① Te whakaritenga papatahi: ka mānu te whenu o te papanga kiko papatahi, ka miro. Ko te āhuatanga o te whakaritenga papatahi ko te āhua o ngā taha e rua o te papanga he rite tonu, ā, he papatahi te mata, nō reira i kiia ai he whakaritenga papatahi. He mārō te kakano o te papanga papatahi, ko tōna ngoikoretanga he mārō te āhua, he hoha te tauira.

② Wāhanga Twill: he tauira piko tonu te pūwāhi o te kākahu twill. Ko te āhuatanga o te kākahu twill ko te rerekētanga o te taha mua me te taha taha o te kākahu, he piripono, he matotoru hoki i te kākahu papatahi, he pai ake te kanapa me te ngawari o te āhua. Heoi, i raro i te matotoru me te matotoru o te whatu, he iti ake tōna pakari i te kākahu papatahi.

③ Te whakaritenga o te satin: Ko te whakaritenga o te satin te mea tino uaua o ngā kiko taketake e toru. Ko te āhuatanga o te kiko satin ko: he maeneene te mata o te papanga, he kanapa, he ngawari te kakano, engari ki te whakatauritea ki te papanga kiko papatahi, te papanga twill, he ngawari ki te waku me te huruhuru o waho, tae atu ki te pakaru. Ko te whakaritenga o te witi te nuinga o te wā e whakamahia ana mō ngā hua kakahu ōkawa.

(5) Taumaha papanga: -ko te tikanga, ko te taumaha karamu mō ia mita tapawha, e pā ana ki te taumaha o te papanga, hei tohu i te matotoru o te taupū papanga. Me mārama te kaihoko ki te taumaha noa o ngā papanga tuku iho o te kōanga me te raumati (ko te nuinga he papanga whatu) me te taumaha noa o ngā papanga tuku iho o te ngahuru me te hotoke.

2. Te whakarōpūtanga o ngā muka kakahu

Ko te muka kakahu te nuinga o te wā ka wehea ki te muka taiao me te muka matū.

(1) Ngā muka tūturu: e pā ana ki ngā muka kakahu i ahu mai i ngā tipu, i ngā kararehe rānei. Kei roto ngā muka tipu (miro, hāne) me ngā muka kararehe (huruhuru, hiraka).

(2) Muka matū: e toru ngā wāhanga matua e wehea ana:

① Muka hangarua: he muka i hangaia mai i te muka cellulose tūturu. Ka hangaia te rayon, te rayon me te huruhuru rūpahu mā tēnei tukanga.

② muka hangai: kei roto i tēnei kāwai ngā muka polyester, acrylic, nairona, polypropylene, me te muka chlorine e whakamahia whānuitia ana.

③ Muka kore-waro: muka silicate, arā, muka whakarewa, nō tēnei kāwai,

3. Te mārama noa o ngā papanga noa

Ko ngā painga me ngā ngoikoretanga matua o ngā papanga e whakamahia whānuitia ana, me ngā tikanga tautuhi hoki e whai ake nei.

(1) Miro:

① Ngā āhuatanga matua:

a. Kaha te mimiti i te makuku.

b. He tino pūmau te kakahu miro ki ngā waikawa kore-waro.

c. Mō te wā roa e pāngia ana e te rā me te āhuarangi, ka taea e te kakahu miro te whakaheke puhoi, te whakaiti kaha.

d. Ngā moroiti, te pokepokea ai me ētahi atu papanga miro.

② painga nui:

A, he kanapa ngawari te mata o te kakahu, ā, he ngawari te āhua.

(5) Taumaha karamu o te papanga (Taumaha papanga): - ko te taumaha karamu mō ia mita tapawha, e pā ana ki te taumaha mō ia mita tapawha o te papanga, hei tohu i te matotoru o te taupū papanga. Me mārama te kaihoko ki te taumaha noa o ngā papanga tuku iho o te kōanga me te raumati (ko te nuinga he papanga whatu) me te taumaha noa o ngā papanga tuku iho o te ngahuru me te hotoke.

2. Te whakarōpūtanga o ngā muka kakahu

Ko te muka kakahu te nuinga o te wā ka wehea ki te muka taiao me te muka matū.

(1) Ngā muka tūturu: e pā ana ki ngā muka kakahu i ahu mai i ngā tipu, i ngā kararehe rānei. Kei roto ngā muka tipu (miro, hāmana) me ngā muka kararehe (huruhuru, hiraka).

(2) Muka matū: e toru ngā wāhanga matua e wehea ana:

① Muka hangarua: he muka i hangaia mai i te muka cellulose tūturu. Ka hangaia te rayon, te rayon me te huruhuru rūpahu mā tēnei tukanga.

② muka hangai: kei roto i tēnei kāwai ngā muka polyester, acrylic, nairona, polypropylene, me te muka chlorine e whakamahia whānuitia ana.

③ Muka kore-waro: muka silicate, arā, muka whakarewa, nō tēnei kāwai,

3. Te mārama noa o ngā papanga noa

Ko ngā painga me ngā ngoikoretanga matua o ngā papanga e whakamahia whānuitia ana, me ngā tikanga tautuhi hoki e whai ake nei.

(1) Miro:

① Ngā āhuatanga matua:

a. Kaha te mimiti i te makuku.

b. He tino pūmau te kakahu miro ki ngā waikawa kore-waro.

c. Mō te wā roa e pāngia ana e te rā me te āhuarangi, ka taea e te kakahu miro te whakaheke puhoi, te whakaiti kaha.

d. Ngā moroiti, te pokepokea ai me ētahi atu papanga miro.

② painga nui:

A, he kanapa ngawari te mata o te kakahu, ā, he ngawari te āhua.

f. Ātete ki te pāmahana teitei, ka taea te whakamahi mō te rino i te pāmahana teitei.

⑥ Ngā wāhanga matua i whakaranua:

a. Miro scoy: he ngawari te kanapa o te mata o te kakahu, he kanapa te tae, he maeneene, he ngawari te ahua, he ngoikore te ngāwari. I muri i te pēhi i te kakahu ki te ringa, ka kitea te kopa mārama, ā, he uaua ki te ngaro te kopa.

B, miro polyester: he kanapa ake te kanapa i te kakahu miro parakore, he maeneene te mata o te kakahu, he ma, kāore he pane miro, he poke rānei. He maeneene, he koi te āhua i te kakahu miro parakore. I muri i te pēhi i te kakahu, kāore e kitea te miro, ā, he ngāwari ki te whakahoki mai i tōna āhua taketake.