①Te tikanga taketake o te tā
E ai ki ngā taputapu tā, ka taea te wehewehe i te tānga ki te tā tika, te tā tukunga me te tā ārai-tae.
1. Tānga tika Ko te tānga tika he momo tānga tika ki runga i te papanga mā, ki runga rānei i te papanga kua oti te tae. Ko te mea whakamutunga ka kiia he tānga kanohi. Ko te tikanga, he pouri ake te tae o te tauira tānga i te tae papamuri. He maha ngā tikanga tānga noa ko te tānga tika. Mena he mā te tae papamuri o te papanga, he mā te nuinga rānei, ā, he mārama ake te ahua o te tauira tānga mai i muri i te tae o mua, kātahi ka taea e tātou te whakatau he tānga tika tēnei.papanga tānga(tuhipoka: nā te kaha o te urunga o te whakapiri tā, kāore e taea te aromatawai i te papanga mārama mā tēnei tikanga). Mena he ōrite te tae o mua me muri o te papamuri papanga (nā te mea he tae wāhanga), ā, he pouri ake te tauira tā i te tae papamuri, koia tēnei te papanga tā uhi.
2. Tānga Tukunga E rua ngā taahiraa o te tānga tukunga, ko te taahiraa tuatahi ko te tae i te papanga tae kotahi, ā, ko te taahiraa tuarua ko te tā i te tauira ki runga i te papanga. Kei roto i te whakapiri tā i te taahiraa tuarua he matū whakamā kaha ka taea te whakangaro i te tae tae turanga, nō reira ka taea e tēnei tikanga te whakaputa i te papanga tauira ira polka kikorangi me te mā, e kiia nei ko te tango mā.
Ina whakaranua te wai mā me te tae e kore e tauhohe ki roto i te whakapiri tae kotahi (nō tēnei momo ngā tae VAT), ka taea te mahi tā tango tae. Nō reira, ina whakaranua he tae kōwhai e tika ana (pērā i te tae VAT) ki te wai mā tae, ka taea te tā i te tauira ira pōkākā kōwhai ki runga i te papanga kikorangi-papa.
Nā te mea ko te tae taketake o te tānga whakarewa ka tae tuatahitia mā te tikanga tae wahi, ki te tāia te tae taketake kotahi ki te whenua, ka nui ake te momona me te hohonu o te tae. Koinei te kaupapa matua o te tānga whakarewa. Ka taea te tā i ngā papanga tānga whakarewa mā te tā roera me te tā mata, engari kāore mā te tā whakawhiti wera. Nā te nui o te utu whakaputa o te papanga tā ki te tā tika, me āta whakahaere me te tika te whakamahinga o te matū whakaiti e hiahiatia ana. He pai ake te hoko o ngā papanga tā pēnei, ā, he teitei ake ngā utu. I ētahi wā, ka taea e ngā matū whakaiti e whakamahia ana i roto i tēnei tukanga te whakakino, te whakangaro rānei i te papanga i roto i te tauira tā. Mena he rite te tae o ngā taha e rua o te papanga (nā te mea he tae wahi), ā, he mā te tauira, he rerekē rānei te tae i te tae papamuri, ka taea te whakaū he papanga tānga whakarewa.
3. Tānga ārai-tae E rua ngā wāhanga o te tānga ārai-tae:
(1) Ka tāia te papanga mā ki ngā matū, ki ngā kapia ware pi rānei, hei ārai, hei ārai rānei i te urunga o te tae ki roto i te papanga;
(2) he wahi papanga tae. Ko te kaupapa he tae i te tae taketake hei whakaputa i te tauira mā. Kia mahara ko te hua he rite ki te papanga tānga rerenga, heoi ko te tikanga e whakamahia ana hei whakatutuki i tēnei hua he rerekē ki te papanga tānga rerenga. Kāore i te noa te whakamahinga o te tikanga tānga ārai-tae, ā, e whakamahia whānuitia ana ina kore e taea te tuku i te tae taketake. Engari i te pūtake whakaputa nui, ko te nuinga o te tānga ārai-tae ka tutuki mā roto i ngā tikanga pēnei i te mahi ā-ringa, te tānga ā-ringa rānei (pēnei i te tānga ārai-waikura). Nā te mea he rite tonu te pānga tā o te tānga rerenga me te tānga ārai-tae, kāore e taea te wehewehe mā te tirotiro kanohi tahanga.
4. Tānga peita Kua whānui haere te whakamahinga o te peita, kaua te tae, hei hanga papanga tānga, ā, kua tīmata te whakaaro he tikanga tā motuhake. Ko te tānga peita te tānga tika o te peita, e kiia ana te tukanga he tānga maroke, hei wehewehe i te tānga mākū (tānga tae rānei). Mā te whakatairite i te rerekētanga pakeke i waenga i te wāhanga tānga me te wāhanga kāore anō kia tāngia i runga i te papanga kotahi, ka taea te wehewehe i te tānga peita me te tānga tae. He mārō ake te āhua o te wāhi tānga peita i te wāhi kāore anō kia tāngia, he matotoru ake pea. Mena he tae te papanga, kāore he rerekētanga nui o te pakeke i waenga i te wāhanga tānga me te wāhanga kāore anō kia tāngia.
Ko ngā tānga peita pouri he āhua mārō ake, he āhua ngoikore ake i ngā tae mārama, i ngā tae mārama rānei. Ina tirohia he papanga kei reira ngā tānga peita, kia tirohia ngā tae katoa, nā te mea tera pea kei runga i te papanga kotahi te tae me te peita. Ka whakamahia hoki te peita mā mō te tā, ā, kaua e warewarehia tēnei āhuatanga. Ko te tā peita te tikanga tā iti rawa te utu mō te whakaputa tā, nā te mea he māmā noa te tānga peita, he iti noa te tukanga e hiahiatia ana, ā, kāore e hiahiatia kia koromamaohia, kia horoia rānei.
He kanapa, he momona ngā tae o ngā paninga, ā, ka taea te whakamahi ki ngā muka kakahu katoa. He māmā te mau, he pai hoki te horoi maroke, ā, he tino pai rawa atu, nō reira he whānui te whakamahinga i roto i ngā papanga whakapaipai, ngā papanga ārai me ngā papanga kākahu e hiahia ana kia horoia maroke. Hei tāpiri, kāore te paninga e whakaputa i ngā rerekētanga tae nui i runga i ngā puranga papanga rerekē, ā, he tino pai hoki te hipoki o te tae turanga ina tāia te kopare.
Tānga motuhake
Ko te tikanga taketake o te tā (e ai ki te kōrero i runga ake nei) ko te tā i tētahi tauira ki runga i te papanga, ko ia tae o te tauira e whakamahia ana i roto i te tikanga tā me te tae, ko te tā motuhake kei roto i te wāhanga tuarua, ko te take mō tēnei whakarōpūtanga, nā te mea ka taea e tēnei tikanga te whiwhi i tētahi pānga tā motuhake, nā te mea rānei he nui te utu o te tukanga, ā, kāore i te whānui te whakamahinga.
1. Tānga Papa Ka whiwhihia te tae turanga o te tānga papa mā te tikanga tā, kaua mā te whakamahi i te tikanga tae wahi. I te nuinga o te wā i roto i te tukanga tā, ka tāia te tae turanga me te tae o te tauira ki runga i te kakahu mā. I ētahi wā ka hangaia he tānga papa katoa hei whai i te pānga o ngā tānga tukunga, tānga ārai-tae rānei, he nui ake te utu ki te whakaputa, engari he ngāwari ki te wehewehe i ngā tānga rerekē mai i te tuara o te papanga. He māmā ake te taha whakamuri o te tānga whenua; nā te mea ka taehia te papanga i te tuatahi, he rite te tae o ngā taha e rua o te tānga tukunga, tānga ārai-tae rānei.
Ko te raruraru o te tānga papa-katoa, i ētahi wā, kāore e taea te hipoki i ngā wāhi nui o te tae papamuri e ngā tae pouri. Ina puta tēnei raruraru, tirohia marietia te tauira i runga i te whenua, ka kitea ētahi wāhi mangu. Ko te horoi te take o tēnei āhuatanga, ehara i te mea nā te nui o te tae e hipokina ana.
Kāore ēnei āhuatanga e puta i roto i ngā papanga tānga kounga teitei i hangaia i raro i ngā tikanga hangarau tino pakari. Kāore e taea tēnei āhuatanga ina whakamahia te tikanga tā mata hei tā i te papa katoa, nā te mea ka waruhia te whakapiri tae, kaua e hurihia ki roto pērā i te tānga roera. Ko ngā papanga tānga kua hipokina ki te papa he mārō te āhua.
2. Tānga whakarara Ko te tānga whakarara te tikanga tā e piri ai te puranga muka e kiia nei ko te puranga poto muka (tata ki te 1/10-1/4 inihi) ki te mata o te papanga i roto i tētahi tauira motuhake. Ka tīmata te tukanga e rua ngā wāhanga mā te tā i tētahi tauira ki runga i te papanga me te piripiri hei utu mō te tae, te peita rānei, kātahi ka whakakotahi i te papanga me te poro muka, ka noho tonu ki te wāhi kua pania te piripiri. E rua ngā huarahi hei tāpiri i te whakarara poto ki te mata o te papanga: te whakarara miihini me te whakarara hiko. I roto i te whakarara miihini, ka tātarihia ngā muka poto ki runga i te papanga i a ia e haere ana i roto i te ruma whakarara i roto i te whānui papatahi.
Ina whakaohokia e te mīhini, ka wiri te papanga, ā, ka whakaurua matapōkeretia ngā muka poto ki roto i te papanga. I roto i te whakakotahitanga hiko-pūmau, ka tukuna te hiko-pūmau ki ngā muka poto, ka hua ake he tūnga poutū o te nuinga o ngā muka ina piri ki te papanga. Ki te whakatauritea ki te whakakotahitanga ā-ringa, he puhoi ake, he nui ake te utu o te whakakotahitanga hiko-pūmau, engari ka taea e ia te whakaputa i te pānga whakakotahitanga ōrite me te matotoru. Ko ngā muka e whakamahia ana i roto i te whakakotahitanga hiko-pūmau ko ngā muka katoa e whakamahia ana i roto i te hanga tuturu, ko ngā muka viscose me te nairona ngā mea tino noa.
I te nuinga o te wā, ka taehia ngā muka tīra i mua i te whakatōngia ki roto i te papanga. Ko te kaha o te papanga whakarara ki te tu atu i te horoi maroke me/ranei te horoinga, e whakawhirinaki ana ki te āhua o te piri. He maha ngā piri kounga teitei e whakamahia ana i roto i te tukatuka papanga he tino pakari ki te horoi, ki te horoi maroke, ki ngā mea e rua rānei. Nā te mea kāore e taea e ngā piri katoa te tu atu i tētahi momo horoinga, me manatoko ko tēhea tikanga horoi e tika ana mō tētahi papanga whakarara.
3. Tānga Warp Ko te tikanga o te tānga warp i mua i te raranga, ka tāia te warp o te papanga, kātahi ka whatua ngātahitia ki te miro papatahi (he mā te nuinga) hei hanga i te papanga, engari i ētahi wā he rerekē rawa te tae o te miro i te tae o te miro kua tāia. Ko te mutunga mai he āhua atarangi ngawari, he āhua pōuriuri hoki te āhua o te papanga. Me āta tupato, me taipitopito hoki te hanga tānga warp, nō reira he tata noa iho te kitea i runga i ngā papanga kounga teitei, engari he rerekē ngā papanga i hangaia ki ngā muka ka taea te tā mā te whakawhiti wera. I te whanaketanga o te tānga whakawhiti wera warp, kua tino heke te utu o te tānga warp. Ka taea te tautuhi i te tānga warp mā te tango i te warp me te miro o te papanga, nā te mea ko te warp anake te tae o te tauira, ā, he mā, he papatahi rānei te miro. Ka taea hoki te tā i ngā pānga tānga warp rūpahu, engari he ngāwari ki te tautuhi nā te mea kei runga i te warp me te miro te tae o te tauira.
4. tānga kua wera
Ko te tānga pirau te tānga o ngā matū ka kino pea te kiko muka i runga i te tauira. Nō reira, he kōhao kei reira e pā ai ngā matū ki te papanga. Ka taea te whiwhi papanga whakairo mata rūpahu mā te tā me ngā roera e rua, e toru rānei, kei roto i tētahi roera he matū whakangaro, ā, ko ngā roera kē atu ka tā i te tuitui o te whakairo rūpahu.
Ka whakamahia ēnei papanga mō ngā paraikete raumati utu iti, me ngā taha mata mō ngā kākahu miro. Ka pakaru wawe tonu ngā taha o ngā kōhao i roto i ngā tānga kua tawhito, nō reira he ngoikore te pakari o te papanga. Ko tētahi atu momo tānga putiputi ko ngā papanga i hangaia ki te miro whakaranu, ki te miro pania ki te matua, ki te ranunga rānei o ngā muka e rua, neke atu rānei, ka taea e ngā matū te whakangaro i tētahi muka (cellulose), ka waiho ngā muka kē atu kia kore e pakaru. Ka taea e tēnei tikanga tā te tā i ngā papanga tānga motuhake me te whakamere.
Ka taea te hanga i te papanga ki te miro whakaranu viscose/polyester 50/50, ā, i te wā e tā ana, ka ngaro (ka pirau) te wāhanga muka viscose, ka waiho ko te muka polyester kāore i pakaru, ā, ko te mutunga iho ko te miro polyester anake te miro i tāia, ko te tauira taketake o te miro whakaranu muka polyester/viscose kāore anō kia tāia.
5. Tānga taha-rua
Taha-ruatāngae tā ana i ngā taha e rua o te papanga kia puta ai he pānga taha-rua o te papanga, he rite ki te āhua o ngā papanga takai kua tāia me te tauira taurite i ngā taha e rua. Ko te whakamahinga whakamutunga he iti noa iho ki ngā rau taha-rua, ngā tauera tēpu, ngā koti me ngā hāte kore-raina, taha-rua rānei.
6. Ngā Tānga Motuhake Ko ngā tānga motuhake he tānga e rua, neke atu rānei ngā tauira ahurei, e tāia ana ia tauira ki tētahi wāhi rerekē o te papanga, nō reira ka whakanohoia ia tauira ki tētahi tūranga motuhake i roto i te kākahu. Hei tauira, ka hoahoa te kaihoahoa ahua i tētahi paraikete me ngā ira puru me te mā i mua me muri, me ngā ringaringa puru me te mā kotahi, engari he tauira rārangi. I tēnei wā, ka mahi tahi te kaihoahoa kākahu me te kaihoahoa papanga ki te waihanga i ngā huānga ira puru me te rārangi ki runga i te rōra kotahi. Me whakarite marie te whakatakotoranga o te tūranga tā me te maha o ngā iari papanga e hiahiatia ana mō ia huānga tauira kia pai ai te tere whakamahinga papanga, kia kore ai e nui rawa te para. Ko tētahi atu momo tānga motuhake ka tāia ki runga i ngā wahi kākahu kua tapahia kētia, pērā i ngā putea me ngā kara, kia taea ai te hanga i ngā tauira kākahu rerekē me te ahurei. Ka taea te tā i ngā pepa mā te ringaringa, mā te whakawhiti wera rānei.
Ko te tukanga tā tuku iho ko te hoahoa tauira, te whakairo rango (te hanga pereti mata, te hanga mata porowhita), te whakarerekētanga whakapiri tae me te tauira tā, te maimoatanga muri (te koromamao, te tango i te rahi, te horoi) me ētahi atu tukanga e whā.
②hoahoa tauira
1. E ai ki te whakamahinga o te papanga (pērā i ngā tāne,ngā wāhine, tai, hāri, me ētahi atu) kia mārama ki te momo, te reo me te tauira o te tauira.
2. He rerekētanga nui te kounga me te ma o ngā tae, e ai ki te momo papanga, pērā i te hiraka me te hānepi.
3. Ko ngā tikanga whakaputa o te tauira, te hanganga o te tae me te tauira me aro ki te tukanga tā me te whānui o te papanga, te ahunga o te miro, te tapahi me te tuitui o te kākahu me ētahi atu āhuatanga. Ina koa ko ngā tikanga tā rerekē, he rerekē hoki te momo tauira me ngā tikanga mahi, pērā i te maha o ngā huinga tae o te tā roera he 1 ki te 6 ngā huinga, ā, ko te whānui o te putiputi he mea here e te rahi o te roera; Ka taea e te maha o ngā huinga tae o te tā mata te neke atu i te 10 ngā huinga, ā, ka taea e te huringa whakaritenga te nui hei tā i te papanga kotahi, engari kāore e pai mō te hoahoa i ngā tauira āhuahanga maeneene me te auau.
4. Me whai whakaaro te hoahoa momo tauira ki ngā painga mākete me ngā painga ōhanga
③Te whakairo putiputi, te hanga pereti mata, te hanga kupenga porowhita
Ko te rango, te mata me te mata porowhita ngā taputapu motuhake o te tukanga tā. Kia puta ai te tauira kua hoahoatia i te tauira e rite ana ki runga i te papanga i raro i te mahi a te whakapiri tae, me whakahaere ngā tukanga hangarau pēnei i te whakairo rango, te hanga pereti mata me te hanga kupenga porowhita, kia puta ai te tauira e rite ana.
1. Te whakairo rango: te tānga mīhini tā rango, te whakairo tauira i runga i te rango parahi, he rārangi twill, he ira rānei, hei penapena i te whakapiri tae. Ko te tukanga whakairo tauira kōpiko i runga i te mata o te roera parahi ka kiia ko te whakairo rango. He mea hanga te rango ki te rino porotaka kua whakakikoruatia ki te parahi, he mea whakarewa rānei ki te parahi, ko te porowhita he 400 ~ 500mm te whānui, ko te roa e whakawhirinaki ana ki te whānui o te mīhini tā. Ko ngā tikanga whakairo tauira ko te whakairo ā-ringa, te whakairo matua parahi, te whakairo iti, te whakairo whakaahua, te whakairo hiko me ētahi atu.
2. Te hanga pereti mata: me hanga te mata papatahi ki te mata e rite ana. Kei roto i te hanga pereti mata papatahi te hanga anga mata, te hanga mata me te hanga tauira mata. He mea hanga te anga mata ki te rakau mārō, ki te rauemi konumohe rānei, kātahi ka totorohia he papanga nairona, polyester, hiraka rānei ki runga i te anga mata, arā, te mata. Ko te hanga tauira mata he tikanga whakaahua-tairongo (te tikanga wehewehe tae hiko rānei) te tikanga ārai-peita rānei.
3. Te hanga kupenga porowhita: Me hanga he tānga kupenga porowhita. Tuatahi, ka hangaia he kupenga nikara me ngā kōhao, kātahi ka whakatakotoria he anga whakarewa porowhita ki ngā pito e rua o te kupenga nikara hei whakau i te kupenga nikara. Kātahi ka pania te kupenga nikara ki te kāpia mārama, ka takai pūmau te tauira wehewehe tae ki roto i te kupenga nikara, ā, ka hangaia te kupenga porowhita me te tauira mā te tikanga mārama.
4. Te whakarerekētanga o te whakapiri tae me te tauira tānga IV. Te maimoatanga i muri i te mahi (te koromamao, te tango i te rahi, te horoi)
I muri i te tānga me te whakamaroke, me whakamaroke, me whakawhanake tae, me rongoā tae totoka rānei, kātahi ka tangohia te rahi me te horoi kia tino tangohia te whakapiri, ngā matū me te tae e mānu ana i roto i te whakapiri tae.
Ko te korohū, e kiia ana hoki ko te korohū. I muri i te whakamaroketanga o te whakapiri tā i runga i te papanga, kia taea ai te whakawhiti i te tae mai i te whakapiri ki te muka, me te whakaoti i ētahi huringa matū, me korohū te tikanga. I roto i te tukanga korohū, ka mimiti te korohū ki runga i te papanga, ka piki te pāmahana o te papanga, ka pupuhi te muka me te whakapiri, ka rewa te tae me ngā matū, ā, ka puta ētahi tauhohenga matū, i tēnei wā ka whakawhitia te tae mai i te whakapiri ki te muka, ā, ka oti te tukanga tae.
Hei tāpiritanga, nā te mea he whakapiri, he uaua ake te tukanga tae o te tānga tae, ā, he roa ake te wā mimiti i te wā tae papa. Ka rerekē anō hoki ngā āhuatanga o te mimiti i runga i ngā āhuatanga o ngā tae me ngā papanga.
Hei whakamutunga, me tango te rahi o te papanga kua tāia, ā, me horoi kia tangohia te whakapiri, ngā matū me te tae e mānu ana i runga i te papanga. Ka noho tonu te whakapiri ki runga i te papanga, ka āhua taratara. Ka noho tonu te tae e mānu ana i runga i te papanga, ka pā tēnei ki te kanapa o te tae me te pumau o te tae.
He hapa i roto i te papanga tānga
Ko ngā hapa tā e tino kitea ana i puta mai i te tukanga tā kua whakarārangihia, ā, kua whakamāramahia i raro nei. Tērā pea ka puta ēnei hapa i te whakahaere hē i roto i te tukanga tā, i te whakahaere hē o te papanga i mua i te tā, i ngā hapa rānei o te rauemi tā tonu. Nā te mea he rite te tā kakahu ki te tae i ngā āhuatanga maha, he maha ngā hapa e puta ana i te tae kei roto hoki i ngā papanga tā.
1. Te tānga tōia o te whakapiri tānga nā te waku i mua i te whakamaroke.
2. Kāore te whakapiri tā tae e tauhiuhi ana ki te papanga e maeneene, engari e maringi ana, e tauhiuhi ana rānei ki te papanga, ki te ira tae, ki te tauhiuhi rānei o te tae.
3. Kāore te tauira o te taha pōuriuri i te maeneene, kāore te rārangi i te mārama, ko te nuinga o te wā ka puta mai i te tahunga hē, i te kore rānei i te tika te kukū o te whakapiri.
4. Kāore e whakaaetia kia noho poutū ngā putiputi nā te mea kua whakarārangihia te rōra tā, te mata rānei, nā te mea kāore i te tika te tauira i mua atu, i muri mai hoki. Ka kiia hoki tēnei hapa he kore ōrite, he nekehanga tauira rānei.
5. Kati te tā nā te mea ka mutu ohorere te mīhini tā i roto i te tukanga tā, kātahi ka tahuri, ka puta te tae o te papanga.
6. Ko tētahi wāhanga o te pakarukaru o te papanga tānga, ina tāngia ki tētahi, neke atu rānei o ngā tae, he maha ngā wā ka pakaru, nā ngā matū kino e whakamahia ana i roto i te tānga whakapiri. Ka kitea anō hoki tēnei raruraru i te wāhanga tuhi o te papanga tānga tukunga.
Wā tuku: Maehe-11-2025
