I tēnei wā, he tokomahangā waitohu kākahue hiahiatia ana ngā tiwhikete rerekē mō ngā kakahu me ngā wheketere e hanga ana i ngā kakahu. E whakamārama poto ana tēnei pepa i ngā tiwhikete kakahu GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex e arohia ana e ngā waitohu nui i ēnei wā tata nei.
1.Tiwhikete GRS
He paerewa hangarua ā-ao kua whakamanahia e te GRS mō ngā kakahu me ngā kākahu; He paerewa hua ā-ao, ā-tinana, ā-katoa hoki te GRS e aro ana ki te whakatinanatanga a te kaihoko mekameka tuku i te whakahokinga mai o ngā hua, te whakahaere mekameka pupuri, ngā kai hangarua, te kawenga pāpori me ngā mahi taiao, me ngā here matū, i tīmatahia e TextileExchange, ā, i whakamanahia e tētahi tinana tiwhikete tuatoru.
Ko te kaupapa o te tiwhikete GRS he whakarite kia tika ngā kereme mō te hua e tika ana, ā, kia hangaia te hua i raro i ngā āhuatanga mahi pai, me te iti o te pānga ki te taiao me te pānga matū. Kua hangaia te tiwhikete GRS hei whakatutuki i ngā kai kua whakahokia mai/kua hangaruatia kei roto i ngā hua (kua oti me ngā mea kua oti te hanga) kia manatokohia e te kamupene, me te manatoko i ngā mahi e pā ana ki te kawenga pāpori, ngā mahi taiao me te whakamahinga matū.
Me tutuki i te tono mō te tiwhikete GRS ngā whakaritenga e rima o te whai i ngā mea e hiahiatia ana, arā, te tiaki taiao, te kawenga pāpori, te tohu whakaora me ngā mātāpono whānui.
Haunga ngā whakaritenga rauemi mata, kei roto hoki i tēnei paerewa ngā paerewa tukatuka taiao. Kei roto ko ngā whakaritenga tino pakari mō te maimoatanga wai para me te whakamahinga matū (e ai ki te Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) me Oeko-Tex100). Kei roto hoki i te GRS ngā āhuatanga kawenga pāpori, e whai ana kia whakamanahia te hauora me te haumaru o ngā kaimahi, kia tautoko i ngā tika mahi a ngā kaimahi, kia tutuki hoki i ngā paerewa kua whakatakotoria e te International Labour Organic Organism (ILO).
I tēnei wā, he maha ngā waitohu e hanga ana i te polyester hangarua me ngā hua miro hangarua, e hiahiatia ana ngā kaiwhakarato papanga me te miro kia whakarato i ngā tiwhikete GRS me ā rātou mōhiohio tauwhitinga hei aroturuki me te tiwhikete waitohu.
2. Tiwhikete GOTS
Ka whakamanahia e GOTS te rauropi ā-aongā paerewa kakahuKo te Paerewa Ao mō te Tiwhikete Kakahu Waro (GOTS) e tautuhia ana ko ngā whakaritenga hei whakarite i te tūnga waro o ngā kakahu, tae atu ki te hauhake i ngā rauemi mata, te whakaputanga kawenga taiao me te pāpori, me te tapanga hei whakarite i ngā mōhiohio a te kaihoko mō ngā hua.
Ko tēnei paerewa e whakarato ana i te tukatuka, te hanga, te tākai, te tapanga, te kawemai, te kaweake me te tohatoha i ngā kakahu rauropi. Kei roto pea i ngā hua whakamutunga, engari kāore e herea ki: ngā hua muka, ngā miro, ngā papanga, ngā kākahu me ngā kakahu kāinga, ko tēnei paerewa e aro ana ki ngā whakaritenga whakahau anake.
Kaupapa whakamana: ngā kakahu i hangaia mai i ngā muka taiao waro
Te whānuitanga o te tiwhikete: Te whakahaere whakaputa hua GOT, te tiaki taiao, te kawenga pāpori e toru ngā āhuatanga
Ngā whakaritenga mō te hua: Kei roto 70% te muka māori waro, kāore e whakaaetia te whakaranu, kei roto 10% te muka hangai, te muka hangarua rānei (ka taea e ngā taonga hākinakina te whakauru 25% te muka hangai, te muka hangarua rānei), kāore he muka whakarerekē ira.
Ko ngā kakahu rauropi tētahi o ngā tiwhikete nui mō ngā whakaritenga rauemi mata o ngā waitohu nui, me wehewehe tātou i waenga i te GOTS me te OCS, arā, he rerekē ngā whakaritenga mō ngā kai rauropi o te hua.
3. Tiwhikete OCS
Paerewa ihirangi rauropi kua whakamanahia e te OCS; Ka taea te whakamahi i te Paerewa Ihirangi Rauropi (OCS) ki ngā hua kore-kai katoa kei roto ko te 5 ki te 100 ōrau o ngā kai rauropi. Ka taea te whakamahi i tēnei paerewa hei manatoko i te ihirangi rauemi rauropi i roto i te hua whakamutunga. Ka taea te whakamahi hei whai i te rauemi mata mai i te pūtake ki te hua whakamutunga, ā, ka whakamanahia te tukanga e tētahi whakahaere tuatoru pono. I roto i te tukanga aromatawai motuhake o te ihirangi rauropi o ngā hua, ka mārama, ka ōrite hoki ngā paerewa. Ka taea te whakamahi i tēnei paerewa hei taputapu pakihi i waenga i ngā kamupene hei āwhina i ngā kamupene ki te whakarite kia tutuki i ngā hua e hokona ana, e utua ana rānei e rātou ā rātou whakaritenga.
Kaupapa tiwhikete: ngā hua kore-kai i hangaia mai i ngā rauemi mata rauropi kua whakaaetia.
Te whānuitanga o te tiwhikete: Te whakahaere whakaputa hua OCS.
Ngā whakaritenga mō te hua: Kei roto neke atu i te 5% o ngā rauemi mata e tutuki ana i ngā paerewa rauropi kua whakaaetia.
He iti iho ngā whakaritenga OCS mō ngā kai waro i ngā GOTS, nō reira me whakarato e te kaihoko waitohu noa he tiwhikete GOTS te kaiwhakarato, kaua ki te tiwhikete OCS.
4. Tiwhikete BCI
Ko te Rōpū Whakawhanake Miro Pai o Huiterangi kua Tiwhiketetia e te BCI; Ko te Kaupapa Miro Pai Ake (BCI), i rēhitatia i te tau 2009, ā, kei Geneva, Huiterangi te tari matua, he whakahaere mema kore-moni o te ao me ngā tari māngai e 4 i Haina, Īnia, Pakitāne me Rānana. I tēnei wā, neke atu i te 1,000 ngā whakahaere mema huri noa i te ao, tae atu ki ngā wāhanga whakato miro, ngā umanga kakahu miro me ngā waitohu hokohoko.
Ka mahi tahi a BCI me te whānuitanga o ngā kaipupuri hea ki te whakatairanga i ngā kaupapa whakatipu BetterCotton puta noa i te ao, me te whakahaere i te rere o BetterCotton puta noa i te mekameka tuku, i runga i ngā mātāpono whakaputa miro i whakawhanakehia e BCI. Ko te whāinga matua a BCI ko te whakarerekē i te whakaputa miro i te ao whānui mā te whakawhanake i te Kaupapa Miro Pai, kia waiho ai te miro pai hei taonga matua. Hei te tau 2020, ka eke te whakaputanga o te miro pai ki te 30% o te whakaputanga miro katoa o te ao.
Ngā mātāpono whakaputa e ono a te BCI:
1. Whakaitihia ngā pānga kino ki ngā mahi tiaki hua.
2. Te whakamahinga wai whai hua me te tiaki i ngā rauemi wai.
3. Arotahi ki te hauora o te oneone.
4. Tiakina ngā kāinga noho tūturu.
5. Te tiaki me te tiaki i te kounga o te muka.
6. Te whakatairanga i te mahi tika.
I tēnei wā, he maha ngā waitohu e hiahia ana kia ahu mai te miro a ā rātou kaiwhakarato i te BCI, ā, he tūāpapa aroturuki BCI anō tā rātou hei whakarite kia taea e ngā kaiwhakarato te hoko BCI tūturu, he rite tonu te utu o te BCI ki te miro noa, engari ka uru mai he utu e rite ana ki te kaiwhakarato ina tono me te whakamahi i te tūāpapa me te mema BCI. I te nuinga o te wā, ka aroturukihia te whakamahinga o te BCCU mā te tūāpapa BCI (1BCCU=1kg miro miro).
5. Tiwhikete RDS
Paerewa Whakamutunga Tangata me te Kawenga kua whakamanahia e te RDS; RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (Paerewa Whakamutunga Tangata me te Kawenga Tangata). Ko te Paerewa Whakamutunga Tangata me te Kawenga Tangata he kaupapa tiwhikete i whakawhanakehia e TheNorthFace o VF Corporation i te mahi tahi me te Textile Exchange me te Dutch ControlUnion Certifications, he whakahaere tiwhikete tuatoru. I whakarewahia mana te kaupapa i te marama o Hanuere 2014, ā, i tukuna te tiwhikete tuatahi i te marama o Hune o taua tau anō. I te wā o te whanaketanga o te kaupapa tiwhikete, i mahi tahi te kaiwhakaputa tiwhikete me ngā kaiwhakarato matua AlliedFeather& Down me Downlite ki te tātari me te manatoko i te tutuki i ia wāhanga o te mekameka tuku whakaheke.
Ko ngā huruhuru o ngā kūtai, ngā parera me ētahi atu manu i roto i te umanga kai tētahi o ngā rauemi kakahu huruhuru hipi kounga teitei me te mahi pai rawa atu. Kua hangaia te Paerewa Humane Down hei aromatawai me te whai i te pūtake o tētahi hua huruhuru hipi, ka waihanga i tētahi mekameka tiaki mai i te kōhi ki te hua whakamutunga. Kei roto i te tiwhikete RDS te tiwhikete o ngā kaiwhakarato huruhuru hipi me ngā rauemi mata, tae atu ki te tiwhikete o ngā wheketere hanga koti huruhuru hipi.
6. Tiwhikete Oeko-TEX
I whakawhanakehia te OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 e te International Environmental Textile Association (OEKO-TEX®Association) i te tau 1992 hei whakamātautau i ngā āhuatanga o ngā hua kakahu me ngā hua kakahu e pā ana ki te pānga ki te hauora o te tangata. E tohu ana te OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 i ngā momo matū kino e mōhiotia ana kei roto pea i ngā hua kakahu me ngā hua kakahu. Kei roto i ngā tūemi whakamātautau ko te pH, te formaldehyde, ngā konganuku taumaha, ngā patu pepeke/ngā patu otaota, te phenol chlorinated, ngā phthalates, te organotin, ngā tae azo, ngā tae carcinogenic/allergenic, te OPP, te PFOS, te PFOA, te chlorobenzene me te chlorotoluene, ngā hauwaiwaro kakara polycyclic, te pakari o te tae, te matū mimiti, te kakara, me ētahi atu, ā, e whā ngā wāhanga o ngā hua e ai ki te whakamahinga whakamutunga: Akomanga I mō ngā pēpi, Akomanga II mō te pa atu ki te kiri, Akomanga III mō te pa atu ki te kiri kāore e tika, me te Akomanga IV mō te whakamahinga whakapaipai.
I tēnei wā, ko Oeko-tex, hei tētahi o ngā tiwhikete taiao taketake mō ngā wheketere kakahu, me mahi tahi me ngā kaipupuri waitohu, koinei te whakaritenga iti rawa mō ngā wheketere.
Te whakarapopototanga
Siyinghongwheketere kakahuhe kaiārahi i roto i te umanga ahua, ā, kua whiwhi ia i ngā tohu me ngā paerewa maha hei āwhina i tō pakihi kia angitu.
Ki te hiahia koe kia ātaahua, kia pai hoki te taiao o ō kākahu, ko siyinghong anake te toa.wheketere kakahu. Ko te pumau me te kawenga pāpori te kaupapa matua o tā mātou mahi whakaputa kia taea ai e koe te waihanga kākahu huatau me te kore e kino ki te taiao.Whakapā maii tēnei rā mō ētahi atu kōrero mō te āwhina i a koe ki te whakatutuki i ōu whāinga.
Wā tuku: Maehe-28-2024
